Shikoku: A Guide to the Island of Udon, 88 Temples, and Setouchi Art

The Shimanto River and Iya Valley — Japan's most pristine landscapes

Kochi, on the southern side of the island, is home to the 196 km Shimanto River, known as "Japan's last clear river" because no major dams obstruct its course. One of the river's defining features is its chinkabashi bridges—low, rail-less concrete bridges designed to disappear beneath floodwaters and re-emerge intact afterward. Renting a bicycle to follow the river, kayaking, or taking a yakatabune houseboat for lunch on the water are all wonderful ways to enjoy the area's unhurried pace of life.

Farther north in the mountains of Tokushima, the deep Iya Valley once served as a refuge for remnants of the Heike clan in the 12th century. Its most famous heart-stopping attraction is Kazurabashi, a suspension bridge woven from mountain vines. With every step, you can see the emerald water 14 meters below through gaps in the planks (the crossing fee is a few hundred yen). Nearby, the Oboke Gorge offers sightseeing boat rides, precarious mountain villages, and renovated thatched-roof houses converted into accommodations—Iya is often described as "Japan's Shangri-La."

When to go

The best time to visit Shikoku is spring (March–May): the weather is mild enough for pilgrimage walks, cherry blossoms brighten the castles of Matsuyama and Kochi, and the Seto Inland Sea is calm for ferry trips to the art islands. Autumn (October–November) is a "second spring," with red leaves coloring Iya Valley and Oboke Gorge—these two periods are also the pilgrimage high season.

Summer is hot and humid but packed with spectacular festivals: Awa Odori in Tokushima in mid-August—the largest traditional dance festival in Japan, with tens of thousands of dancers taking to the streets—and Yosakoi in Kochi just beforehand. Southern Shikoku lies along a major typhoon route in August–September, so be sure to purchase travel insurance and monitor the forecast. Winters are mild and quiet, ideal for anyone who wants to soak in Dogo Onsen and eat hot udon in peace.

Local specialties

Beyond its famous Sanuki udon, each Shikoku prefecture has a signature dish. Kochi is known for katsuo no tataki—bonito seared over straw until the outside is charred while the inside remains rare, then served with salt and raw garlic. It is best enjoyed at Hirome Market, where you can buy dishes from multiple stalls and sit together at lively communal tables. Tokushima has ramen in a rich soy-based broth served with a raw egg; Ehime is famous for its many varieties of mikan citrus available year-round; and Seto Sea bream is cooked with rice in the dish known as taimeshi. Prices are much gentler than in Japan's major cities: you can eat well all day for around 2.000–3.500 yen.

Getting around

There are three main ways to reach Shikoku: by train across the Seto Ohashi Bridge to Takamatsu (about 1 hour from Okayama), by direct flight to Matsuyama, Takamatsu, or Kochi from Tokyo and Osaka, or by highway bus from the Kansai region. On the island, JR Shikoku serves the main cities, but trains are slow and infrequent. The All Shikoku Rail Pass (around 12.000–18.000 yen depending on the number of days) also covers some private railway lines and offers ferry discounts.

For the Shimanto River and Iya Valley, however, renting a car is the most practical option, as public transportation is very limited. To reach Naoshima, take a ferry from Takamatsu (about 50 minutes) or from Uno in Okayama.

Suggested itinerary

A suggested 5-day itinerary: Day 1, Takamatsu—Ritsurin Garden and an "udon tour" of 2–3 shops. Day 2, spend the full day exploring Naoshima's art by ferry. Day 3, head into Iya Valley—Kazurabashi Vine Bridge, Oboke Gorge, and an overnight stay in a traditional house. Day 4, continue south to Kochi—Hirome Market and the castle, or add an extra day for the Shimanto River. Day 5, cross to Matsuyama—visit the castle and soak in Dogo Onsen to close out the journey, then fly or take the train off the island.

If you would like a fully arranged trip with a private car for harder-to-reach destinations, see OlaChill's Japan tours; detailed tips for each destination are continually updated on the OlaChill blog.

Shikoku has no dazzling neon lights or skyscraper shopping centers. What it offers is a slower, more generous, and more genuine Japan—a place where a stranger might press a mikan into your hand simply because you are traveling a long way. And sometimes, that is exactly what we are looking for when we travel.

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