Kyoto in the Fall Foliage: Take the Train Instead of the Bus to Avoid Getting Stuck in the Crowds

If you have ever stood at the bus stop in front of Kyoto Station on a late-November morning, you will understand why this article exists. The line for bus 206 to Kiyomizu-dera winds around three times, staff members use loudspeakers to organize the queue, and every bus that pulls up is already packed from the previous stop. Some people wait through three buses without managing to board, and even once they do, they are squeezed in like sardines for twenty minutes on a journey that should take only ten minutes by car. Kyoto’s fall foliage is truly beautiful, but if you get around the city the wrong way, the price is hours spent stuck on Higashioji Street.

The irony is that most visitors stranded on buses are not there because Kyoto lacks trains, but because they assume Kyoto “doesn’t have a decent rail system.” The opposite is true: Kyoto’s rail network — Keihan, the JR Nara Line, the Randen tram, and the two subway lines — covers nearly all the famous autumn foliage spots, runs on time regardless of traffic, and shows its greatest advantage precisely during peak season.

This guide brings together everything you need to know about getting around Kyoto in the fall: which airport to fly into, how to get from the airport to the city, why you should plan your itinerary around train lines instead of buses, which pass to buy or whether an IC card is all you need, and where to leave your luggage so you can enjoy the foliage hands-free. This is all based on the kind of advice passed down by travelers who have been there before. For exact fares and schedules, check the official websites before you go, as services in Japan are occasionally adjusted.

Which Airport to Fly Into and How to Get to Kyoto

Kyoto does not have its own airport. For travelers flying from Vietnam, the main gateway is Kansai International Airport (KIX), located on an artificial island in Osaka Bay. There are many direct flights from Vietnam to KIX, and getting from KIX to central Kyoto takes around an hour and a half, depending on the mode of transport. Some travelers fly into Narita or Haneda (Tokyo) and then take the shinkansen south, which is also an option, but if Kyoto is the main destination of your trip, flying directly to KIX is generally the most sensible choice in terms of both time and cost.

Haruka Train: Fast, Comfortable, and Direct to Kyoto Station

The Haruka is a JR limited express train that runs directly from Kansai Airport Station to Kyoto Station, taking around 75–80 minutes with no transfers. This is the option I recommend for most people, especially if you are carrying a large suitcase: the train has luggage racks for oversized bags, comfortable seats, and, most importantly, it never gets stuck in traffic.

A one-way Haruka ticket for an ordinary seat costs a little over 3,000 yen, but there are a few useful things to know. First, JR West sells discounted Haruka tickets to foreign visitors through its online booking website, and buying in advance is usually cheaper than purchasing at the counter — check the official JR West website before your trip. Second, if your itinerary includes Osaka, Nara, or Kobe, JR’s Kansai-area passes often include the Haruka, making them excellent value. Third, during the peak fall foliage season (mid-November to early December), trains can be crowded. If you want to guarantee seats together for your group, consider reserving designated seats.

Limousine Bus: Slightly Cheaper and Convenient if Your Hotel Is Near a Stop

The limousine bus from KIX to Kyoto stops around Kyoto Station (on the Hachijoguchi side) as well as at a few other locations. The journey takes around 85–100 minutes when traffic is moving freely. Its advantage is that you do not have to drag your suitcase through train stations: simply place your luggage in the luggage compartment and sit back for a nap. The drawback is contained in the words “when traffic is moving freely.” Highways around Osaka can be completely jammed during rush hour or on fall weekends, and there is nothing you can do about it. In my experience, the bus is fine when traveling from the airport into the city, but when heading back to the airport for your flight home, take the Haruka if your schedule is tight. Train delays are extremely rare, whereas no one will compensate you for missing a flight because of a traffic jam.

The Budget Option: Local Trains or a Nankai Connection

If you are traveling on a tight budget and want to save as much as possible, you can take JR’s Kanku Rapid to Osaka and then transfer to a local train for Kyoto, or take the Nankai Line to Namba and change to another train. The total journey takes about 30–45 minutes longer than the Haruka, and you will need to transfer at least once while handling your luggage. Since the price difference is not particularly large, I recommend this option only if you are traveling light or plan to stop in Osaka first.

Why You Should Take the Train Instead of the Bus in Fall

Bus 206 and the Higashiyama Nightmare

Bus 206 is the “everybody’s choice” route for tourists because it loops past nearly all the popular spots in the east: Kiyomizu-dera, Gion, Yasaka, and then northward. That convenience is precisely why it becomes a victim of its own popularity during the fall foliage season: everyone piles onto the 206, Higashioji Street is narrow and congested, buses inch forward by the meter, and passengers are packed so tightly that drivers have to skip stops because there is no room for anyone else. Waiting 30–40 minutes just to board, then sitting — or rather standing — for another 30 minutes to cover a distance of 3 kilometers is entirely possible on a peak-season weekend. In recent years, Kyoto has even had to introduce additional express buses specifically for tourists to ease the pressure, which gives you some idea of how serious the problem is.

Kyoto’s buses are not bad — on ordinary days, when they are not crowded, they can be a pleasant way to get around. But during the fall foliage season, my rule is simple: if you can get there by train, take the train. Use the bus only for a short final leg when there is no other option, and if that final leg is under 2 kilometers, walking may actually be faster — and you get to enjoy the streets along the way.

Keihan: The Backbone of the Eastern Foliage Route

The Keihan Line, which runs along the Kamo River, is the most useful train line for Kyoto in autumn that many visitors do not know about, because it does not depart from Kyoto Station. From Tofukuji Station, where it connects with JR, Keihan takes you directly to Fushimi Inari (Fushimi-Inari Station), Shichijo (walk to the National Museum and Sanjusangendo), Kiyomizu-Gojo (around 20 minutes on foot uphill to Kiyomizu-dera — slightly farther than the bus, but without the wait), Gion-Shijo (right in the heart of Gion), and finally Demachiyanagi in the north. There, you can transfer to the Eizan Railway for Kurama and Kibune, two valleys filled with breathtaking fall foliage. An entire eastern sightseeing corridor is neatly covered by one train line that runs every few minutes and never gets caught in traffic.

Tofukuji Temple itself — one of Kyoto’s top fall foliage spots, with the Tsutenkyo Bridge overlooking a maple-filled valley — is only about ten minutes on foot from Tofukuji Station on both the Keihan and JR lines. This area becomes unbelievably crowded during peak season, so arriving by train is the only sensible choice.

JR Nara Line: Tofukuji and Fushimi Inari from Kyoto Station

If you are staying near Kyoto Station, the JR Nara Line is an excellent shortcut: it is just one stop to Tofukuji and two stops to Inari, the station directly in front of the entrance to Fushimi Inari Shrine and even closer than the Keihan station. Trains run frequently, and the journey takes only a few minutes. Anyone with a JR Pass or a Kansai-area pass can ride this line for free. One small tip: make sure you board a local train, because rapid trains may skip Inari Station — check the electronic display before boarding.

Randen: The Vintage Tram to Arashiyama

Randen, also known as the Keifuku Line, is a charming single-car tram that runs from the Shijo-Omiya area to Arashiyama, with a branch line heading northwest to Kitano-Hakubaicho. This is the most pleasant way to reach Arashiyama during peak season, when the roads into the area are hopelessly congested. The Kitano branch is even more useful for foliage lovers: from stations along the line, you can walk to Ninna-ji, Ryoan-ji (famous for its rock garden), and the terminus at Kitano-Hakubaicho, which is not far from the maple groves at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. The ride itself is also an experience — the old-fashioned tram rattles through residential neighborhoods, with some sections sharing the road with cars like a European streetcar.

Also remember that the JR Sagano/Sanin Line from Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama Station takes only about 15 minutes — faster than any other option if you are starting from the central station. From there, it is about a ten-minute walk to the bamboo grove and Togetsukyo Bridge.

Subway: Only Two Lines, but They Reach the Critical Spots

Kyoto has only two subway lines — the north–south Karasuma Line and the east–west Tozai Line. That may sound limited, but they reach the places where buses struggle most. The Tozai Line has Keage Station: walk a few minutes from the exit to the steep Keage Incline, Nanzen-ji Temple with its enormous Sanmon Gate and red-brick aqueduct, and then follow the leafy Philosopher’s Path toward Eikando and farther on to Ginkaku-ji. Taking the bus through this whole area during peak season is torture, whereas taking the subway to Keage and walking turns it into one of Kyoto’s most beautiful routes. The Tozai Line also continues to Daigo, the station near Daigo-ji Temple, a major foliage destination that few Vietnamese visitors know about. The Karasuma Line is useful for moving quickly between Kyoto Station, the busy Shijo area, and the north. Transferring to a short bus ride to Kinkaku-ji from one of the northern stations is far less congested than taking a bus all the way from Kyoto Station.

Bonus: Eizan to Kurama — A Train Ride Through a “Maple Tunnel”

From Demachiyanagi Station, the terminus of the Keihan Line, the Eizan Railway heads into the northern mountains toward Kurama and Kibune. Between Ichihara and Ninose, the train passes through a canopy of maple trees that glows red on both sides in autumn. Locals call it the momiji tunnel, and during peak season it is sometimes illuminated in the evening. If you have a full day and want to escape the crowds in the city center, the Kurama–Kibune route — taking the train up, hiking the mountain trail between the two villages, soaking your feet in an onsen, and then returning — is the highlight of many people’s trips.