Nikko Tosho-gu shrine and Lake Chuzenji

Tosho-gu is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the shogun who unified Japan, and his grandson rebuilt it in the 1630s as a statement of the dynasty's wealth. Almost every surface is carved, lacquered or gilded: the Yomeimon gate alone carries hundreds of figures, the three wise monkeys sit on the sacred stable, and a small sleeping cat guards the passage to the tomb. Together with the surrounding shrines and temples it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Both departure points, Asakusa and Tokyo Station, lead to the same core visit with admission covered. The 8-hour option pairs Tosho-gu with Shinkyo, the vermilion bridge arching over the Daiya River at the entrance to the shrine area. The 10-hour versions keep climbing: up the Irohazaka road, whose 48 hairpin bends are named after the old Japanese syllabary, to Kegon Falls and the shore of Lake Chuzenji. The guide sets the pace around the carvings so you see the details, not just the crowds.

Nikko is noticeably cooler than Tokyo, and at 1,269 m Lake Chuzenji colours up in October, well before the city's trees turn. That season also brings slow traffic on the hairpins, especially at weekends. Inside the shrine, stone steps climb through cedar forest toward Ieyasu's tomb, so comfortable shoes matter. Photography rules differ between buildings and the guide points them out. Most people leave remembering one small carving more than the overall scale.