Matsuyama & Dogo Onsen in One Day
Matsuyama Castle by chairlift, sea bream over rice in the arcades, then the tram to Dogo for Japan's oldest bathhouse and the sweet shops around it.
Last updated 2026-09-03 · 1-day self-guided plan
Matsuyama & Dogo Onsen
Castle on the hill, then the oldest bath in Japan
For first-time visitors to Shikoku's biggest city who want the castle, the tram and a proper soak, all within a few kilometres.
1Matsuyama Castle
From the Okaido tram stop, a five-minute walk brings you to the ropeway station; take the open chairlift up the hill and arrive at the gate around 9:00, when the keep opens. This is one of Japan's dozen original castles, a tight maze of gates and walls designed to trap attackers, and the top floor looks over the city to the Seto Inland Sea. Walk down through the cherry trees instead of riding.
1.5 HoursCost: ¥500–1,000- 2
Okaido and Gintengai arcades, tai-meshi lunch
The two covered arcades meet at the foot of the castle hill and run for nearly a kilometre; sit down around 11:30. Tai-meshi is Ehime's dish and comes two ways: Matsuyama style, a whole sea bream cooked in the rice pot, or Uwajima style, raw slices in a raw-egg sauce poured over hot rice. Several restaurants on the arcade serve both, so order one of each and share.
1 HourCost: ¥1,000–2,000 - 3
Tram to Dogo Onsen
Board the tram at Okaido for the 20-minute ride to the Dogo Onsen terminus, the end of the line. A few times a day the Botchan Ressha, a diesel replica of the steam train from Natsume Soseki's novel, runs the same route for a higher fare. At the terminus, the mechanical clock in the square performs on the hour and the free footbath next to it is a good place to wait for it.
45 MinutesCost: ¥100–500 - 4
Dogo Onsen Honkan bath
The wooden three-storey bathhouse at the top of the arcade dates from the 1890s and is the model for the bathhouse in Spirited Away, though the water has been used for far longer. Buy a ticket at the door for the plain bath or the upper-floor tea-and-yukata course around 14:00, before the evening rush. Tattoos are accepted here, and the newer Asuka-no-yu bathhouse a minute away has a garden and modern facilities.
1 HourCost: ¥500–1,500 
5Dogo arcade sweets and Ishiteji temple
The covered arcade between the bathhouse and the tram stop sells Botchan dango, three coloured rice dumplings on a stick, and the crumbly tart rolled with bean paste that Matsuyama claims as its own. Walk 15 minutes east along the main road to Ishiteji, temple 51 of the Shikoku pilgrimage, with a huge straw-sandal gate, a three-storey pagoda and a cave tunnel lined with Buddhist statues; it is open until dusk.
1.5 HoursCost: ¥500–1,500
Day 1 Estimated Cost
- Food¥2,500–4,500
- Transport¥500–1,000
- Admissions & bath¥1,500–3,000
Tips
The Iyotetsu tram runs a flat fare and a one-day pass that also covers the castle ropeway discount; buy it at the counter beside Matsuyama-shi station or on board.
Castle paths are steep cobbles and the keep is climbed in socks, so wear shoes you can kick off, and bring a small towel for the bath because the Honkan charges for rental.
Try both tai-meshi styles at lunch, and save room for a mikan juice on the arcade; Ehime grows most of Japan's citrus and the juice taps in Dogo pour it by the variety.
The Honkan facade lights up after dark, so if you stay for dinner, come back to the square at around 19:00 when the lanterns are on and the daytime crowd has left.